How the Kitchen Got Cool

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Retailers

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If you once poked your head into your grandma’s pantry, odds are you were more likely to encounter expired spices than anything remotely appealing. Traditionally, inside there would be a collection of pots, tins, cans, and jars — universally useful, but nothing pretty. Then, in 2018, Great Jones launched a brightly colored Dutch oven, a hint that things in the kitchen were starting to change. Like your collection of clothes, your cookware suddenly became an extension of your personality.

“I wanted — I mean I always want — nice things, and I found it preposterous when people said, ‘Just wait until you get married,’ especially in reference to cookware,” says Sierra Tishgart, co-founder and CEO of Great Jones. So she set about creating affordable and aesthetically pleasing pieces that encourage a new generation living at home to get to know their stove a little more intimately.

Since then, brands have swooped in to make over every corner of the kitchen, with aesthetic blenders, toasters, and knives.

“Staple product categories like oils, tinned fish, cans of beans and soups, condiments, and sauces have all been overhauled and can be items for display as opposed to just being tucked away out of sight,” says Jennifer Creevy, WGSN’s director of food and drink. “Younger consumers with less disposable income initially turned to snacks and ready-to-drink sodas as symbols of cool in the same way as they would fashion because they were much more accessible in price.”

From there, things expanded into the pantry with brands swooping in to create glamorized olive oil (The woman) and anchovies (Fishwife). Although social media is a factor in pushing forth more camera-friendly options, there are other factors at play: the rise of global pantries, an increased demand for brand transparency, and the fact that young people in America are drinking less than their parents.

➼ Start with a global pantry
➼ Think about what’s in your kitchen
➼ Serve a nonalcoholic beverage

In 2018, Jing Gao, the founder of Fly by Jingfound herself at odds with the state of the modern pantry. She remembers her first visit to Expo West, the largest food trade show in the US “I realized there really weren’t any brands that felt representative of my culture and upbringing,” she says. “I decided it was a good time to introduce real, authentic Sichuan flavors.” She launched a chile crisp with a bright, maximalist design: “I didn’t want to buy into any of the stereotypes of what Chinese food might look like.”

Gao also explains that these additions to a kitchen can serve as value signals that communicate “a willingness to try new things, or cultural curiosity.” Popular recipes on the New York Times cooking website included Gochujang Caramel Cookies and Chili Crisp Fried Rice. As American palates continue to expand into new flavors and international cuisines, Gao expects to see more ingredients move out of their former home in the ethnic aisle: “They’ll be formulated and formatted in ways that lower the barrier to entry for open-minded first timers — allowing for perpetually new waves of ‘cool’ products.” Although attention must be paid to avoid the appropriation of recipes and ingredientsthere is a way to embrace the flavors of other white cultures respecting their heritage.

Creevy describes the interest in international ingredients as the rise of a global pantry inspired by Netflix shows and TikToks alike. “It feeds into younger generations’ desire to experiment but also to feel connected to parts of the world that they know through the media,” she says.

A generation of chefs who have made a habit of checking ingredient lists have found solace in a new category of brands that emphasize their transparent supply chains or higher-quality ingredients. While there’s a wealth of wellness brands emphasizing gut health or protein intake, for many successful emerging brands, the goal is something simpler: to innovate in existing spaces by using premium or health-conscious ingredients. That could mean cast-iron cookware instead of nonstick or an ingredient list that’s easy to pronounce.

“Consumers are concerned about issues like ultraprocessed foods, seed oils, and where their food comes from in terms of sustainability and health but also in terms of businesses that speak to their values ​​when it comes to diversity, inclusion, and social equity,” says Creevy. “They want more healthy yet convenient products, they want to be able to look at the label and understand all the ingredients, and they want to support local and regional suppliers.”

Kate Greer, founder of popcorn-pod brand Cheerie Laneis a fifth-generation family farmer in Iowa who saw a need for something new in the space. “People have become disillusioned with legacy players. They want to connect with and trust the brands that they’re shopping,” she says. “Transparency, ingredients, and intention all play a role in that.” The brand uses non-GMO heritage corn and cacao butter, and it charges around $4.50 per pod.

A higher price point for these premium products (sometimes in tandem with a shorter shelf life) can put them out of reach for many shoppers. But a certain upper-middle-class millennial who knows exactly what Erewhon has proven to be willing to invest if there’s a chance the product will be good for them or the planet.

When Melanie Masarin launched nonalcoholic aperitif brand Ghia in June 2020, the goal was to make some room on the bar cart for an elevated zero-ABV option. “Hosting typically revolved around drinking, and we believed there was an opportunity to reimagine that experience,” she says. Even younger generations are drinking less, having alcohol-free drink options available that taste great and feel celebratory is a revelation for those who love to entertain — or enjoy a beverage while they cook for themselves.

A number of brands have also expanded the breadth of alcohol alternatives, offering products that focus on such options CBD, mushrooms, energyhours adaptogens. Ultimately, these products have attracted niche but loyal audiences, willing to fill the role of traditional beverages like classic sodas, energy drinks, and alcoholic beverages with something more pared down (and often less caloric).

But the vessel can be as important as the drink itself. Ghia collaborated with homeware designer Sophie Lou Jacobsen on a set of sipping glasses. Other labels, such as Kitchen material and Fableoffer simple yet functional glasses in addition to kitchen staples like knives and serving bowls. Meanwhile, Aarke was created for a more luxurious carbonated-water-making experience.

If all this feels overwhelming, it’s because it is. Every nook and cranny of the modern kitchen could be filled with a modern appliance, snack food, or beverage. If you’re intrigued but intimidated, the easiest way to test the waters is to start small — swap a go-to item in your home with an elevated alternative, something design-forward that you’re excited to try.

“The ‘everyday’ is the bulk of how we spend our time,” says Tishgart. “If companies like ours can make you feel excited about your kitchen and make the daily process of cooking joyful and satisfying, you’re going to cook more, which is great.”